Four Meals in Croatia Part I

Note:  My friend Jeanine Barone who writes J The Travel Authority, recently visited Croatia. Today and tomorrow she shares with the Traveler’s Library her discoveries in this largely undiscovered country  which were enhanced by her reading of a Croatian writer.

Destination: Croatia

Book: Croatia by Tony Fabijanic

Dreaming of Croatia

by Jeanine Barone, http://www.jthetravelauthority.com

I spent four weeks roaming through Croatia on foot, by bike and on a bus. Before I started my journey, I read a lovely travelogue by Tony Fabijancic. In Croatia: Travels in Undiscovered Country, Fabijancic returns to his family’s homeland to explore the nooks and crannies of this varied landscape and its people. When I wrote the four vignettes below, I was inspired by some of the dreamy qualities of his often poetic narrative, such as: “…the hazy stillness of the afternoon has put the town peacefully to sleep and I circulate alone, happily” and “…when we enter the interior, houses appear like forlorn orphans — shutters closed, roofs sinking and people long gone…Then Hvar appears below as if in answer — a sudden awakening to culture and tourism.”

1. Truffles

I sit alone at a table for two on an outdoor terrace. At the few adjoining tables, couples chatter and stare deep into each other’s eyes. They’re oblivious to their surroundings: we’re atop 13^th century fortress walls surrounding the medieval hilltop village of Motovun. While they wait for their dinner, they don’t bother strolling to the edge of the battlements to peer far below at the vineyards, barely visible now as the night begins to cloak the meadows and fields dotted with lavender. I sit alone under a full moon that illuminates the old watchtower that was once used to spy for any Turkish assault. Oblivious, the couples seek the hand of their partner across the table that’s empty except for tall wine glasses. A soft wind brushes against my cheek as my dish arrives: a simple omelet with black truffles that the chef’s dogs dug up this morning. I take a forkful and taste centuries of love.

2. Medieval shadows

In Hvar Town on the eponymous island, the tourists cluster along the harbor front, browsing through an endless array of souvenir stalls and shops crammed ironically with snow globes of Croatian sea scenes. I escape up a tall set of ancient stone stairs that seem to climb right to the tree tops. It’s dark and getting darker as I seek the fortified monastery that overlooks the town from its hilltop perch. I no longer hear the endless cacophony of boat and pedestrian traffic by the port. The stairs steepen and the occasional intimate café set beside this stone way as well as votive candles positioned on the steps are no more. I can barely see where to place my foot as I stumble even higher. Ahead are just more stairs and I give up counting them when suddenly they stop. I’m at a dark road with a cloak of darkness on the other side. It turns out to be an immense iron gateway, that’s locked. The monastery is apparently on the other side. After this sweaty effort, I turn around prepared to head back to the noise-filled night far below. But, this time, I branch off to a side street. I don’t know where I’m going. Anything to postpone seeing those snow globes. A glowing storefront appears on an otherwise shadowy cobbled street. It resembles a cave with stone walls and a barrel-shaped ceiling. Antique cabinets and gilded mirrors line the cozy rough walled room. A young man approaches and, in English, asks if I’d like to try one of the five regional wines they’re featuring tonight. They can also include local cheese. I don’t need any convincing. I’m already scouting a cranny to settle in beside an old wine press in the corner.

Thanks, Jeanine, for this nice view of Croatia.  Tomorrow Jeanine visits two more spots in Croatia.

Tags: book, Croatia, food Jeanine Barone, Travel. guest post