Note: Today Jeanine Barone continues her guest post on Croatia, inspired by a Croatian writer, learning about the country through accidental experiences with food.

Destination: Croatia

Book: Croatia: Travels in Undiscovered Country by Tony Fabijansic

(Continued)

3. Batana Boats

A tall, thin man wearing a red and white striped stocking cap and matching long-sleeved shirt rows the flat-bottomed batana boat around a rocky promontory. It’s just four Croatians and me on this dinner “cruise” celebrating this traditional handmade boat that Rovinj’s fisherman have used for centuries. There are no waves or wind on this moonless night as we head to a basement wine cellar at the water’s edge. The only thing guiding our way in the inky night is a small halogen light that one of the men holds and points at the rocky shore. Finally, I glimpse a set of steps that end on the waterfront. We dock beside them and climb up to a stone dwelling where I can hear a woman with a melodious voice singing sweet folk music. She’s joined by string instruments. In the basement that’s pocked with huge wine barrels and a handful of long communal tables, bowls and plates sail out of the small kitchen: a thick fish stew in tomato sauce, sardines in olive oil, anchovies atop arugula, several kinds of whole fish, giant grilled shrimp. It’s me and now 12 Croatians. No one speaks English. But wine jugs are passed around. Glasses are raised and glasses clink for a toast. More fish dishes arrive on the table. I don’t need a translator. Continue reading Four Meals in Croatia, Part II →